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DOWSING TOOLS
The pendulum is probably one of the most
widely used tools amongst dowsers, and is incredibly simple
to make, if you don’t have access to a shop that sells
them, or if you would simply prefer to have your own home-made
tools.
Take a length of string, wool, chain or
other fairly fine line and attach a weight to the end of
it. What you’re aiming to end up with looks remarkably
similar to a plumb bob, or plumb line (as used by carpenters
and builders to achieve straight lines) with an overall
length of about 5” (12 cm) and 9” (20 cm) for
everyday indoor work. The weight could be a crystal pendant,
a stone with a hole in it, a metal nut (as in “nut
and bolt” type of nut) or anything else that comes
to your mind as being appropriate. There are two main points
to bear in mind: 1) make sure the weight is securely attached
or you, or someone else, could have a nasty accident if
the weight flies off when swinging vigorously, and 2) ensure
that the weight can swing freely.
With regard to the ideal weight - sorry,
no pun intended – of the pendulum, this is very much
a matter of personal choice and comfort though it may also
be dictated by your intended usage. Personally, I like to
use a heavy pendulum these days, though when I started dowsing,
my reactions were generally not that vigorous and a light
pendulum worked fine. Recently, I used a light pendulum
having misplaced my usual one, during a healing session,
and practically decapitated myself because of the force
of the swing!) However, other practioners I know always
use a light pendulum, so it really is what suits you, particularly
if all of your dowsing will be done indoors. If you plan
on using a pendulum outside, you might like to consider
a heavier weight to counter-act the effects of the wind.
When your pendulum is ready for use, let
a comfortable length of string or chain drop down from your
hand, wrap the excess around your finger or hold it in your
palm, if your prefer and hold the string or chain between
the tips of the index finger and thumb of your dominant
hand (i.e. your right hand if you’re right-handed
or your left had if you’re left-handed). Now set the
pendulum swinging gently back and forth in a straight line
in front of your body. This is known as the “SEARCH”
position, and is akin to having a car in “neutral”.
Now, relax, and say, “Show me “YES””.
If you don’t detect an immediate response, don’t
panic; it’s really important to try and stay relaxed,
while holding the thought “YES” in your head.
Sooner or later, you will almost certainly find that the
pendulum changes the pattern of its swing. Many right-handed
dowsers will find that the pendulum swings in a clockwise
circular movement for “YES” (left-handed dowsers
tend to have the opposite swing), but others will find a
different motion. The actual shape or angle described by
the pendulum is irrelevant; what is important is that you’ve
just found your own positive dowsing reaction, so well done!
Now, you need to clear all thoughts of “YES”
out of your mind, and returning the pendulum to the search
position, ask to be shown your “NO” reaction.
Again, this may be an anti-clockwise circle, or it may be
something completely different. I have even had someone
find that the pendulum came to a dead halt for “NO”.
The main thing to be aware of at this stage is that it is
a clearly defined reaction that is quite distinct from your
“YES” response.
Y - Rod
To use your y rod, plastic, wooden or otherwise,
hold each of the “horns” in one hand, palm facing
up, with the v shaped bit held out horizontally in front
of you. The tension should feel quite springy. The idea
is that when you cross a water vein, or other target, the
v bit will seem to pull towards the target. (Please do be
careful that the rod doesn’t hit you in the face,
or anywhere else that might be painful).
L - rods
While one may fairly readily purchase purpose-made
copper, brass or steel L-rods, or choose to commission handmade
forged rods specifically tailored to the individual, L-rods
are very simple to make. They can be made from garden wire
or by cutting up an old wire clothes hanger. If you want
to go for the deluxe model, slip a straw or biro casing
over the shorter end and turn the wire up slightly to stop
it slipping off.
Whatever rods you use, start by holding
the shorter end of the rods loosely gripped in your hands,
with the long ends uppermost and pointing out from your
body. The usual suggestion is that one stands, holding them
parallel, roughly shoulders’ width apart. This is
the L-rod search position.
If you’re working indoors, or outdoors
on a calm day, you should find that you can dowse easily
enough if the rods are straight (i.e., horizontal). However,
if you’re dowsing outside on a windy day, you may
find that it’s very difficult to get an accurate reading
with them. Pointing the tips of the rods slightly towards
the ground should help to rectify this problem.
L-rods are superb tools for finding straight
lines or for pointing out directions, and may be used in
two principal ways. I cannot emphasise enough that, whichever
method you use (or indeed you some of us both, depending
on what exactly we want to find at the time) you need to
be clear about when you want the rods to cross: when the
tips reach the target is probably safest with earth energies.
The first method is to have your rods cross (literally make
an x shape) when you reach your target. This is very effective
if you’re looking for a particular spot. However,
it is often quite useful to know where the edge of a line
is, in which case you can ask to have your rods open outwards
when you reach the edge of whatever line it is that you’re
seeking. This means that if you approach a line head-on
at 90°, the rods will run parallel to your body. If,
however, the line is flowing at an angle to you, you may
find one rod pointing to your shoulder and the other away
from your body.
What you’ve probably found is first,
or leading, edge of the line. If it’s a water line
or energy ley, remember that it will have two edges. You
can set your rods back to “SEARCH” and ask to
be shown the second edge. If you like, you may also re-set
the rods and ask for the centre of the line. If you can’t
find the second edge, turn around and go backwards as the
second edge may be behind you!
The other question that you could ask at
this point is to be shown the direction of flow of your
line. Stand looking across the line, with the rod (you only
need to hold one of them up for this exercise) in search
position and ask your question. The rod will turn to point
downstream; in other words, your hand is upstream and the
tip of the rod is downstream.
The other useful trick that can very easily
be done with l-rods is to find a direction. There are two
ways of doing this. With the rods in search position, simply
say, “Show me North” or “Show me the direction
of the house stopcock” and let the rods turn in your
hand. The problem with this is that the point may be behind
you, making it physically difficult for the rods to turn.
You could hold them high over your head, or you could try
another, more effective, version of the same thing –
hold the rod(s) in search position, and then swivel your
whole body around, holding the rod(s) in front of you. When
you reach the point where the North / stopcock is located,
the rod will seem to “lock” into position, so
as you turn, it remains pointing in the same direction.
Bobber or Wand
A bobber or wand typically looks like a
very long awl, with a (wooden) handle and a long straight
wire coming out of it. To put it into “SEARCH”
mode, hold it in front of you, pointing out from your body
and get in nodding (bobbing) gently up and down. A “YES”
response would typically be to find it describing clockwise
circles and “NO” would be an anti-clockwise
circular motion. As with all other tools, ultimately it’s
what works for you is the crucial point here.
Aurameter
When I’m doing preparatory dowsing
work on a client’s plans or clearing on-site, I generally
use my pendulum. However, for site dowsing where I’m
actually looking for something, following a stream, establishing
the edges of a stream etc, the aurameter is definitely my
tool of choice. It is an incredibly sensitive and flexible
tool, and most importantly for me, easy to read.
Before I get you all excited and feeling
that you MUST have one of these wonder-tools, I should tell
you two things. Firstly, you’re unlikely to really
need one and secondly, they are horrendously expensive.
The Cameron Aurameter, developed in the
States in 1954 by Verne Cameron was just one of many, many
dowsing tools that he developed. As its name implies, the
Aurameter was developed to dowse the human aura, and it
is ideally suited for this. If someone runs it down back
of one’s aura, it actually feels quite ticklish. Although
a number of people have apparently tried to build their
own versions of this tool, I am not aware of anyone ever
having been successful with the venture. As you’ll
see from the image, it just looks like a metal handle with
a piece of wire, partly twisted into a spring, and having
a metal weight on the end. There is also another spring
inside the handle and the success of the instrument seems
to lie in the balance.
However it actually works, here are a few
clues on how to use one if you do come across one. (They
were very difficult to acquire but are now available from
the BSD shop in the UK and ASD shop in the US. The current
UK cost is in the region of £90! The shops also stock
a rather dated and idiosyncratic guide to the tool’s
usage, courtesy of the inventor.)
Hold the handle in your dominant hand,
with the wire stretched out in front of you, pointing somewhat
upwards. Adjust the weight at the end as necessary, but
the general thinking is that it should be pointing low down
for water and then higher for earth energies and higher
vibrations such as auras. This is the first “SEARCH”
position for the Aurameter – it has several!
Now, let’s assume that you want to
find and track an underground stream. Ask the tool to show
you the direction of the nearest stream and watch it turn
in your hand. Follow where the tip points. Ask to be shown
the leading edge of the stream and watch the wire straighten
as it reflects the line edge. Ask for the direction of flow,
and it will quickly point in one direction. As with l-rods,
your hand is upstream and the tip is pointing downstream
(unless you’ve asked to be shown “upstream”,
of course.)
If you’re trying to follow an energy
spiral or circle, the Aurameter comes into its own, as it
is so flexible. If the energies are strong, it can practically
jump out of one’s hand on occasion!
Another excellent feature of the Aurameter
is that it can work as a simple bobber or as a pendulum.
If you want to use it as a bobber, hold it in the “SEARCH”
position described above, and set it gently nodding up and
down. If you ask to be shown “YES”, you may
find it turning off slightly to the right and describing
clockwise circles; similarly, from the “SEARCH”
position, you may find it turning slightly to the left and
describing anti-clockwise circles for “NO”.
As with any other dowsing tool, the important factor is
that the two responses are differently and that you can
tell which means what.
The other useful aspect of the Aurameter
is that it can also be used as a pendulum. To do this, turn
the Aurameter upside down, i.e. the weighted wire should
be pointing directly down towards the ground. Hold your
thumb over the point where the wire turns ground wise, and
then set the weighted wire swinging back and forward in
the “SEARCH” position, and ask to be shown “YES”
and “NO” as we’ve done before.
Device-less
Dowsing
Device-less dowsing the art of dowsing
without any external tools. There tends to be an assumption
that deviceless dowsing is “advanced” dowsing,
but in actual fact many people can simply do it straight
off, particularly if they haven’t been pre-programmed
to believe that they need a tool. There are probably any
number of ways of doing this but here are a few to try out
for yourself:
Rub the tip of the thumb and index finger
of your dominant hand together (a bit like the British “money,
money, money” hand-gesture). Assuming this works for
you, there will be a different sensation for “YES”
and “NO”. People often say that there is a slippery
feeling for “NO” and a more sticky sensation
for “YES”, though this may be reversed for others.
The best way of testing is to run down through a list of
yes/no questions and see if you can discern a difference
in your responses, and what that difference is.
Another method is to again put the tip
of your dominant thumb and index finger together, and link
the non-dominant hand through in exactly the same way, like
the links in a chain. Now start asking yes/no questions
and try gently pulling the dominant hand away from the link.
If it breaks away easily (we’re not talking about
trying to break your fingers!), this may indicate a positive
response; if the chain remains unbroken, this may mean a
negative response. Once again, remember that each of us
is unique, and you may experience the responses differently.
For the next method, we’re going
to use living l-rods, in the form of your arms. Hold your
arms out in front of you, just as you would with metal rods.
Ask to have your arms swing apart when you cross a line.
Although not quite as discrete a method as those previously
mentioned, many people seem to get this one quite easily.
A less obtrusive variation of the arms
method is to use your two index fingers as tiny l-rods.
Again feel your fingers swing out when you reach your target.
Have a go!
One more use of the fingers and arms is
to extend your dominant arm in front of you and “feel”
your index finger “lock onto” the target you’re
seeking. This is excellent for following water or other
lines through the landscape.
There are probably numerous other versions
of deviceless dowsing, probably at least one for each of
us. However, I shall mention just a few others that I have
tried.
Try using the previous method, but lock
onto your target with your eyes, rather than your finger.
To do this, you need to scan the landscape in front of you
looking for the closest vein of water, for example. At some
point as you move your head around, your eyes will “lock
in”. Try not to judge what’s happening –
“This is just my imagination” – but let
your eyes follow the stream on from that point. It will
probably feel as though your head or even your eyes themselves
have gone “heavy”. This does take practice,
like any other dowsing technique, but works very well if
you can keep your thoughts from blocking out your intuition.
Another method that involves the eyes is
to get into dowsing mode (the state of relaxed concentration)
and try to keep your eyes open. If you blink, this may signify
“YES”; no blink may represent “NO”.
My two final suggestions for the moment
both involve the imagination. For the first variation, imagine
a pendulum in front of your third eye (forehead). Imagine
dowsing with this pendulum, exactly as you would if you
were physically holding a pendulum in your hand. Therefore,
you “see” the pendulum giving your usual “YES”
or “NO” response.
Lastly, I sometimes imagine an analogue
dial in front of my third eye. The “SEARCH”
position is when the needle is pointing straight up the
middle. A “YES” answer is shown by the needle
swing off to the right of the dial, while a “NO”
answer is indicated by a swing to the left. This is a very
effective tool if you want to gauge the extent to which
something applies, e.g. is there a line of geopathic stress
running through this bed? If the needle goes straight over
to the right edge of the dial, I know that, not only is
the area geopathically stressed, but that the level is likely
to be in excess of 8 / 10; if the needle moves slightly
to the right, this means that, yes, the area is geopathically
stressed but the line is probably less than 3 / 10 in strength.
In other words, this method allows me to combine two questions
into one. It’s also versatile and can be used either
on-site or in map dowsing.
Perhaps you feel drawn to try some of these
suggestions or perhaps they’ve inspired you to try
something for yourself. Experiment and find a system that
you’re comfortable with and that works for you. The
only way to truly achieve this is to practice – your
building up your dowsing muscles.
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